Monday 23rd September 2013
It was getting late in the year and I thought that I would need to get in a wee break with Fergus before the camping season's end. I chose Bergerac on the recommendation of some friends, the wine, and of it being not too far away. The fact that the weather was sunny and warm also helped my decision.
And, so it was settled then.
I set off around late morning and. after packing up Fergus with all I could think of, I was on my way. The SatNav was in operation and I was looking forward to the trip down. In no time at all, I was approaching Angouleme to be guided around the rocade and its many roundabouts. Fergus' wing mirrors are old and small and have to be set just right to help manouvre in busy traffic - especially so when entering a road from a sliproad. After a few hairy moments, I had left the busy town behind and was looking forward to a pleasant journey down through Dordogne.
The SatNav I had set itself. On reflection, I should have used Michelin Maps on the internet to upload the route on the SatNav. As it was, I was taken on a roundabout route using Route Nationales and an Autoroute. It was not a pleasant driving experience in such an old vehicle. Eventually I arrived in Bergerac, but, having used co-ordinates instead of an exact address, I was taken to a location and I was finding it difficult in the narrow streets to find my way into the campsite. I could see it, but getting into it was a different matter. However, after asking a passerby, I was home and dry. In no time at all I was settled in for the night.
It was getting towards 2.30 and I thought that I would need to resign myself to a sandwich for lunch. I set off on the short walk back across the river to the main part of town.
It was really hot and I only got as far as the River Side Restaurant by the Vieux Port before stopping for a refreshment. The service was pretty poor and the price was steep, so I only stayed as long as it took me to drink a beer.
I followed the direction posts that led my to the old town and, surprisingly, I found some restaurants still serving lunch. Being hungry and not to fussy, I selected an Italian place and had some penne bolognaise with a pichet ae rouge. It was in Place Pélissière, across from the closed Restaurant Côté Noix, and very nice it was too with very pleasant service.
After lunch it was a pleasant wee stroll round the vielle ville. The Church of St James with its connections to one of the Chemins des Saint Jacques de Compostella and its pilgrimage was my next port of call. Much of it was destroyed in the Wars of Religion but its attractive bell-tower and balcony are original. It is essentially a Romanesque church but has undergone many alterations over the centuries. In the nineteenth century it was deemed too small for its large congregation and a new church, Notre Dame, was built and consecrated in 1865. The organ is listed but seemed to be missing by this untutored eye. (Perhaps being restored??).
With that touristy thing done, it was a wee refreshment in Au PQP before heading to a wee restaurant for lunch. Again, plain fare was the order of the day as my appetite and wallet could not indulge in anything else.
After lunch it was a wee wine in Au PQP before returning to Fergus for another wee rest. It was really hot and I was grateful for the shade by the river. I also took the opportunity to ask at reception as to where was the nearest available petrol station (two kilometres out on the Bordeaux road at Le Clerc). This would help me when I left the next morning. I also asked if the route through Riberac was a recommended way back to Angouleme only to be told that it was a logical way to go!!!!.... not the same thing??
I set off back to town to buy a EuroMillions ticket and also try and find a local bar / café. I eventually found somewhere close to what could be termed a local - adjacent to a Tabac at Notre Dame de Bergerac. It wasn't too expensive and it was a good place to sit and watch the world go by (after wasting 2€ on a useless grattage card - scratch card that is!!!).
A trip back to the Old Town and a last wander around its hidden streets was finished at......guess where???? Yes! Au PQP. There was no room outside, so I sat inside with a white wine while I read the paper. The owner arrived (English it turned out) and said something in French about having to go outside. She turned to me and said are you English or French? None of which applied of course. I said Scottish and she informed me that she had smelled gas and to be on the safe side she was vacating the bar. I went outside and took a spare seat at one of the tables which, in the event of an explosion, was not a particularly safe place either.
Interest heightened with the arrival of the Gas Emergency Services and after about 20 minutes investigation, the source of the problem was found and made safe. I had found a cumfy place to spend the rest of the night now and after a few more wines, I headed back for, hopefully, a better sleep.
Wednesday 25th September 2013
It was not to be. I again woke up fairly early and so decided to make an early star after my ablutions and once I had tidied up.
Fergus started up fine and I made my way to Le Clerc for some fuel for the journey back to Civray. I found it no bother from the directions I had been given and with my SatNav set for Home, I was soon on my way. The SatNav was really good getting me through Bergerac and on the road to Civray, but I was interested whether it would take me by way of Riberac or by the way I had come. It was apparent that it wanted me once more to go the way I had come - on the AutoRoute and by the Routes Nationales. I decided to ignore it and initially it tried to correct me. However, when I persevered with going to Riberac, it altered its route to the one I desired. Perfect! And.... so it proved, a lovely journey back to outskirts of Angouleme, where stupidly, I lost concentration and found myself heading on the N10 in the direction of Bordeaux. But the SatNav came to my aid again and at the next sliproad I went off to take the return sliproad back in the direction of Poitiers. It was here that a near disaster occurred when, for the first time in France, I turned left at the traffic lights under the N10 and was about to drive on the left!!!!! Luckily, I quickly realised my mistake and fortunately no vehicles were coming towards me at the time. Maybe I was tired.
On the right road once more and going in the right direction, I was soon taking the turn off for Ruffec and the road to Civray and home. Ah!!!!!!
Click slideshow to view more photies.
It was getting late in the year and I thought that I would need to get in a wee break with Fergus before the camping season's end. I chose Bergerac on the recommendation of some friends, the wine, and of it being not too far away. The fact that the weather was sunny and warm also helped my decision.
And, so it was settled then.
I set off around late morning and. after packing up Fergus with all I could think of, I was on my way. The SatNav was in operation and I was looking forward to the trip down. In no time at all, I was approaching Angouleme to be guided around the rocade and its many roundabouts. Fergus' wing mirrors are old and small and have to be set just right to help manouvre in busy traffic - especially so when entering a road from a sliproad. After a few hairy moments, I had left the busy town behind and was looking forward to a pleasant journey down through Dordogne.
The SatNav I had set itself. On reflection, I should have used Michelin Maps on the internet to upload the route on the SatNav. As it was, I was taken on a roundabout route using Route Nationales and an Autoroute. It was not a pleasant driving experience in such an old vehicle. Eventually I arrived in Bergerac, but, having used co-ordinates instead of an exact address, I was taken to a location and I was finding it difficult in the narrow streets to find my way into the campsite. I could see it, but getting into it was a different matter. However, after asking a passerby, I was home and dry. In no time at all I was settled in for the night.
It was getting towards 2.30 and I thought that I would need to resign myself to a sandwich for lunch. I set off on the short walk back across the river to the main part of town.
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| View Of Bergerac From The Vieux Pont |
It was really hot and I only got as far as the River Side Restaurant by the Vieux Port before stopping for a refreshment. The service was pretty poor and the price was steep, so I only stayed as long as it took me to drink a beer.
 |
| Gabarre At The Vieux Port |
I followed the direction posts that led my to the old town and, surprisingly, I found some restaurants still serving lunch. Being hungry and not to fussy, I selected an Italian place and had some penne bolognaise with a pichet ae rouge. It was in Place Pélissière, across from the closed Restaurant Côté Noix, and very nice it was too with very pleasant service.
 |
| Place Pélissière |
After lunch it was a pleasant wee stroll round the vielle ville. The Church of St James with its connections to one of the Chemins des Saint Jacques de Compostella and its pilgrimage was my next port of call. Much of it was destroyed in the Wars of Religion but its attractive bell-tower and balcony are original. It is essentially a Romanesque church but has undergone many alterations over the centuries. In the nineteenth century it was deemed too small for its large congregation and a new church, Notre Dame, was built and consecrated in 1865. The organ is listed but seemed to be missing by this untutored eye. (Perhaps being restored??).
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| Place Pélissière |
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| The Organ In L'Eglise St Jacques |
It was now a walk up Grand Rue itself, passed Place Louis Labardonne, until I was faced with the grandeur of Notre Dame de Bergerac designed by the architect Paul Abadie in Neo-Gothic style. It is topped with an 80 metre high steeple whose first floor opens on the nave while acting as a gallery at the same time. The nave has two narrow side aisles. The transept - with two lovely large, rose, stained-glass windows - is in front of the apse with an ambulatory beyond.
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| Notre Dame De Bergerac |
I began to not feel well. Which was a surprise as I have been feeling good health-wise for some time. I thought perhaps it was the strain of travel and decided to slow down on the touristy things.
I found shelter from the crowds in Au Plus-Que-Parfait at the corner of Rue des Fontaines. It is was a pub but not like the usual corny, themed Irish bars that are so ubiquitous all over the place. It sold numerous draught beers and over 60 bottled beers as well as many Bergerac wines by the bottle and the glass. It was just the thing. I took my time.
I returned to the camping site for a wee rest to see if that would help. I don't like it in France when this happens to me as I worry too much about what may be wrong. (Too many health issues and medication.)
Gradually I began to feel better but lacking in energy still, I walked back across the river to the old town to relax in any cafés and bars that I could find. Restaurants are all over the place in Bergerac but of decent cafés or bars I couldn't find any. After a red wine in the Restaurant La Scala on Place Pélissière. I returned once more to Au PQP for a night-cap. It was dark when I returned to Fergus and, I hoped, a good night's sleep.
Tuesday 24th September 2013
It was a poor night's sleep. I woke up in middle of the night, and only finally got to sleep again in the early morning. After my morning ablutions were over, I made my way over the Vieux Pont and into town. I bought a croissant in the Marché and had it along with a petit café at Le Tampico on Grand Rue - served by a grumpy waiter and costing 1,70€!!!!
Next, I made my way down to the Maison des Vins. This building is erected around an elegant inner courtyard - the Récollets Cloister, at the heart of old Bergerac, and has maintained its 17th Century look whilst lending the beauty of its stones to the requirements of the Maison des Vins. The permanent exhibition "Le Vin est Voyage" (“Wine is a journey”) is very informative and includes an historic panorama from the Tertiary era up until now. There is also a slide show, a sensorial table and a wine shop offering a wee degustation with many wines for sale…a journey through time and the senses so it is.
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| Le Cloître des Récollets |
After lunch it was a wee wine in Au PQP before returning to Fergus for another wee rest. It was really hot and I was grateful for the shade by the river. I also took the opportunity to ask at reception as to where was the nearest available petrol station (two kilometres out on the Bordeaux road at Le Clerc). This would help me when I left the next morning. I also asked if the route through Riberac was a recommended way back to Angouleme only to be told that it was a logical way to go!!!!.... not the same thing??
I set off back to town to buy a EuroMillions ticket and also try and find a local bar / café. I eventually found somewhere close to what could be termed a local - adjacent to a Tabac at Notre Dame de Bergerac. It wasn't too expensive and it was a good place to sit and watch the world go by (after wasting 2€ on a useless grattage card - scratch card that is!!!).
A trip back to the Old Town and a last wander around its hidden streets was finished at......guess where???? Yes! Au PQP. There was no room outside, so I sat inside with a white wine while I read the paper. The owner arrived (English it turned out) and said something in French about having to go outside. She turned to me and said are you English or French? None of which applied of course. I said Scottish and she informed me that she had smelled gas and to be on the safe side she was vacating the bar. I went outside and took a spare seat at one of the tables which, in the event of an explosion, was not a particularly safe place either.
 |
| Au Plus-Que-Parfait |
Interest heightened with the arrival of the Gas Emergency Services and after about 20 minutes investigation, the source of the problem was found and made safe. I had found a cumfy place to spend the rest of the night now and after a few more wines, I headed back for, hopefully, a better sleep.
Wednesday 25th September 2013
It was not to be. I again woke up fairly early and so decided to make an early star after my ablutions and once I had tidied up.
Fergus started up fine and I made my way to Le Clerc for some fuel for the journey back to Civray. I found it no bother from the directions I had been given and with my SatNav set for Home, I was soon on my way. The SatNav was really good getting me through Bergerac and on the road to Civray, but I was interested whether it would take me by way of Riberac or by the way I had come. It was apparent that it wanted me once more to go the way I had come - on the AutoRoute and by the Routes Nationales. I decided to ignore it and initially it tried to correct me. However, when I persevered with going to Riberac, it altered its route to the one I desired. Perfect! And.... so it proved, a lovely journey back to outskirts of Angouleme, where stupidly, I lost concentration and found myself heading on the N10 in the direction of Bordeaux. But the SatNav came to my aid again and at the next sliproad I went off to take the return sliproad back in the direction of Poitiers. It was here that a near disaster occurred when, for the first time in France, I turned left at the traffic lights under the N10 and was about to drive on the left!!!!! Luckily, I quickly realised my mistake and fortunately no vehicles were coming towards me at the time. Maybe I was tired.
On the right road once more and going in the right direction, I was soon taking the turn off for Ruffec and the road to Civray and home. Ah!!!!!!
Click slideshow to view more photies.
